Christmas in Italy

While most tourists dream of visiting Italy during the summer, there are some who would visit at no other time than in December. Some undoubtedly come for the Christmas festivities (this being the home of Catholic HQ), but for some people it’s just a delightful time to visit, when you can see the country put on its holiday finery. Italy in December is cold, to be sure, but you’ll be able to warm up with frequent stops at Italian bars for a little espresso or Vin Santo pick-me-up (you may also find Vin Brule, or hot mulled wine, on a menu here or there – give it a try if it’s really cold out!). And if you’re spending time in the south, especially as far south as Sicily, the air won’t be as chilly. Consult the Italy weather page for some temperature and rainfall averages.
Most tourist sites are open in December, save for the 25th and 26th, so that shouldn’t be an issue with your visit. You are likely to find shorter opening hours, however, so be sure to check the sights you want to take in to make sure you don’t miss it by an hour.

Italy in December isn’t all about Christmas, but this holiday certainly is in evidence in nearly every Italian city and town. You won’t see giant fake reindeer or a Santa Claus on every corner, but you are very likely to see a nativity scene (called a presepio in Italian) in many a piazza. Some towns decorate the streets with garlands and lights strung between the buildings, and you’ll even see heavily decorated Christmas trees in some cities. There are countless markets which spring up around Italy in December, too, which are fantastic if you’re doing any holiday shopping (or just want to bring home a little treat for yourself!).
In addition to Christmas celebrations, there are other Italian festivals in December which may interest you. For a list of the festivals which will be going on in when you’re there, go to this fabulous festival finder, choose “December” from the menu and then choose the region (or regions) you’ll be visiting. You’ll get a nice long list for each region, and can pick and choose the ones that sound most interesting to you.
Some areas of Italy get very crowded right around the Christmas holiday, especially Rome and Vatican City, so if you’re planning to head to the Vatican over Christmas you’ll want to book your room in advance (and don’t be surprised if the prices are higher – Christmas is one of the mini “high seasons” within the winter low season). Should you want to hear the Pope speak during the holiday, plan on a noon address on Christmas Day in St. Peter’s Square.
A few things to know about Christmas in Italy:

• Santa Claus is known as “Babbo Natale,” or Father Christmas, in Italy.
• To most Italians, Epiphany (celebrated on January 6) is a more important holiday than Christmas, and Epiphany – not Christmas – is in fact when most people exchange gifts.
• Instead of Santa bringing presents to Italy’s children, it’s La Befana who brings gifts on Epiphany. She’s an old woman who flies around the country on a broom delivering her presents.
• If you’re in Rome, you may hear bagpipes being played by zampognari – shepherds from the nearby Abruzzo region who wear traditional dress and play throughout the piazzas in the city.
• There are some foods and treats which only come out during December, including the famous panettone (a sweet bread from Milan) and roasted chestnuts (which are usually available during most of the autumn and winter).
• Almost every church in Italy will have a midnight mass on Christmas eve, which can be a lovely way to start the holiday.